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Published 14:55 06 Jan 2021 GMT
Peter Joseph launches first solo restaurant and it's a portal to dining decadence
Former head chef at the Michelin-starred Tamarind, Peter Joseph has now opened his own restaurant in west London’s Sloane Square. Kahani, which literally translates as “story”, is a high-end Indian restaurant with a focus on flavour.
Entirely subterranean, the restaurant is carefully illuminated with frequent, tempered lighting, icicle-esque spotlights above the bar and an oh-so-Instagrammable up-lit staircase.
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Velvet and marble add depth to a space that is already dripping in style. The back wall is made of glass - affording diners a view of their expansive wine collection. Sitting near a large stone fireplace in chairs which each had a door knocker on the back, there were subtle hints of rococo elegance.
Even before you eat, it's obvious that something special is on the cards.
Eating at Peter Joseph's Kahani
Peter Joseph's menu consists predominantly of small plates. Around seven dishes are suggested for two people. We started with the char-grilled Scottish scallops, which were juicy, generously proportioned and came with a sauce of star anise and spiced raw mango and coconut chutney.
The delicious soft shell crab, the presentation of which can sometimes be quite macabre, was served in a delicate fashion. Four precisely portioned dollops of tomato and roasted red pepper sauce added a rich, umami flavour to the dish.
The poussin showcased two ostensibly similar ways to flavour chicken. The first featured paprika and garam masala, while the second offered less garam masala with the addition of turmeric.
The turmeric-infused poultry had an almost fruity taste, highlighting the complex pairing and preparation of these spices. This was accompanied by a delicious mint and coriander chutney.
The chicken was followed by a slightly dry-looking venison keema. However, again to my delight, the meat deceptively soft, to the point that it formed a sort of paté to spread on a fluffy circle of truffled naan.
After the venison came the sea bream, which we would later decide was the standout dish of the evening. Texturally, the flesh was so delicate that you couldn’t tell where fish ended and delicious aubergine chutney began.
The arrival of another spectacular table centrepiece raised the stakes once again. Lobster always makes for an impressive dish, but this serving was extra special.
The dish featured three different techniques, including grilled, curried and steamed lobster. At £48 ($62) it definitely doesn't come cheap. However, it definitely steals the show as far as looks go.
Dessert menu at Kahani
Dessert took the form of a chilli chocolate mousse bomb with gulab jamun bits and an ingenious “melt in the middle” raspberry cheesecake.
The dish revolves around a spherical shell of chocolate, which melts away thanks to a topping of warm chocolate sauce in order to reveal the mousse inside.
By contrast, the reconstructed cheesecake takes the form of a ball and, though less theatrical, is arguably more enjoyable to eat. Light and refreshing, it is devoid of the biscuit base which gives this dish its familiar heaviness.
Drinks at Peter Joseph's Kahani
Drinks are also a key part of the offering. The cocktails are incredible and the Khatta Gin, which again features a suggestion of mint (in addition to gin, Amaro Montenegro, lime juice and egg white) is a mixology lesson in itself.
In another restaurant, the cocktails might have stolen the show but at Kahani, they are merely part of the experience. The wine list is extensive too with the choice, for example, of eight different Rieslings.
Kahani’s approach is definitely unique. One might not expect to see something like venison on the menu of an Indian restaurant.
However, as Peter Joseph tells me, Kahani doesn’t serve fusion food. Instead, the focus is on using traditional Indian techniques and high-quality ingredients in an original way.
By serving fantastic food in a stylish setting, Joseph has created a restaurant worthy of commendation.